Kenya’s Apparel Industry Report Shows Second-Hand Clothing and Local Manufacturing Can Grow Together

The Institute of Economic Affairs Kenya and the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) have released a report titled A Future Look at the Apparel and Footwear Industry in Kenya (2022–2037).

The report examines the future of Kenya’s clothing industry and outlines a practical approach for growth.

This report is the most detailed study of Kenya’s apparel sector to date. It concludes that the second-hand clothing trade (Mitumba) and local apparel manufacturing can coexist and serve different market segments. As incomes rise, demand for used clothes will decline, but overall clothing consumption will increase. By 2037, average incomes are expected to double, supporting both sectors.

A combined apparel sector of used imports and local manufacturing can contribute to economic growth, job creation, and sustainability, aligning with Kenya’s Vision 2030 and the African Union’s Agenda 2063. Achieving this requires policies that support both imports and local production.

The report includes a 15-year plan based on economic modelling, consumer surveys, and policy analysis. It finds that Mitumba is not a threat but a valuable part of Kenya’s diverse economy, with potential across Africa.

Teresia Wairimu Njenga, Chairperson of MCAK, said, “The apparel sector’s future depends on coexistence, not competition. Second-hand clothing supports affordable access for low-income families and can grow alongside local manufacturing. With clear policies, both sectors will advance Vision 2030 and Agenda 2063.”

Key findings on Mitumba’s role include:

• Jobs and Revenue: In 2022, Kenya imported about 177,000 tonnes of second-hand clothing, supporting around 2 million jobs, many held by women and youth, and generating nearly Ksh 12 billion (about USD 100 million) in annual tax revenue.
• Environmental Impact: The Mitumba market helps reduce textile waste by extending the life of garments, supporting circular economy goals and reducing the fashion industry’s environmental footprint.

Kwame Owino, CEO of the Institute of Economic Affairs Kenya and lead researcher, stated: “Our research shows that when barriers are removed, Mitumba and manufacturing together create more jobs, consumer options, and sustainable growth than when one is restricted. This approach benefits the economy and families relying on affordable clothing. Smart policies based on evidence should leverage the strengths of both sectors.”

The report’s policy recommendations include:

• Harmonising import regulations and enforcing quality standards for new and used clothing.
• Supporting local manufacturers with tax incentives and skills development.
• Encouraging eco-friendly practices across the industry.

These recommendations provide a clear framework for Kenya to achieve balanced growth in the apparel and footwear sector. The report highlights that inclusive, data-driven policies are key to making the industry a source of economic and social progress.